Die Verarbeitung unserer Low-Profile-Stecker geht unkompliziert und schnell. Mit den untenstehenden Anleitungen für XLR- und TA3-Stecker könnt ihr mit euren eigenen DIY-Kabeln direkt loslegen.

Nachdem ihr vorhabt eure eigenen Kabel zu bauen, gehen wir davon aus, dass ihr bereits Kenntnisse im Löten und dem Abisolieren und der Verarbeitung von Kabeln habt.

Die Anleitung kann am Ende des Artikels auch als PDF heruntergeladen werden.

Lieferumfang:

XLR - M or F Connector Shell - Insert, 3-pin or 5-pin - Color Cap - (2) Grub Screws - Mini Zip-Tie - Hex Wrench

TA3F - Connector Shell - Insert, 3-pin or 5-pin - Screw Cap - Insert Holder - Mini Zip-Tie

XLR

Besides the 1.5mm Hex wrench [which is included] you do not need any special tools beyond what is standard to install classic straight XLR connectors.  Method is the same for Male or Female connectors.

• Remove approximately 12mm of the cable jacket. Fray and twist the shield tight and TIN ONLY about 4mm at the end.

• Put flexible 2:1 heat shrink over the non-tinned shield leaving the 4mm tip exposed. Tin the + & - leads. Put a 5mm cut of 2:1 heat shrink on the wire before you solder the leads to the insert. This will soon be heated over the area where the leads exit the jacket for insulation and strength of the joint. Solder the leads into the insert solder cups. Heat the shrink over the joint. Install the included mini Zip-tie strain relief at the edge of the insulation shrink as shown. The "head" of the Zip-tie should be positioned to the side - pull it nice and tight.

• Place the insert into the XLR shell and bend the cable towards the position you would like the cable to exit the cap. Install the color cap. Carefully pull the cable so the Zip-tie rests against the inside of the cap exit. Install the Grub screws with the included Hex wrench while applying constant pressure to hold the cap in place. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! You only need to torque the screws to the point where the screw is flush with the outer shell. Overtightening can damage the color cap.

• You can loosen the Grub screws and carefully twist the cap between the screws to align the cable exit to your preference. If you need the exit to be on the opposite side of the connector, e.g. Exit off of PIN 2 instead of PIN 1, you will need to remove the cap and bend the cable assembly carefully towards the other side. If you just remove the screws and twist the cap all the way around to the other side you will have a bad day.

TA3F

• Remove approximately 5mm of the cable jacket. Fray and twist the shield tight and tin all leads.

• Put a 5mm cut of 2:1 heat shrink on the wire before you solder the leads to the insert. This will soon be heated over the area where the leads exit the jacket for insulation and strength of the joint. Solder the leads into the insert solder cups. Heat the shrink over the joint. Install the included mini Zip-tie strain relief at the edge of the insulation shrink as shown. The "head" of the Zip-tie should be positioned DOWN - pull it nice and tight. Carefully fit the insert into the shell and push the cable into the side slot. 
  
  

• Push in the insert brace into the open area behind the release plunger. Screw on the threaded cap. Be careful screwing the cap to not cross-thread it. You may have to turn it counter-clockwise a little when fitting it on so it grabs the thread start cleanly.